Naples, Italy

Location: Naples, Italy

Time Frame: May/June, 2 nights, 2 days

Lodging

Type. We had a family room (quad bed) at a hotel near Naples.  We booked with the Hotel Gauro - Pozzuoli through lastminute.com.

Cost. We paid $200 for the two night stay.

Amenities.  This room had one double bed and a set of bunk beds.  We requested a baby cot, which was provided free of charge.  Our room had a balcony with a "sea view".  We had a private bathroom, television, air conditioning, and a small "mini-bar" fridge (which we requested be emptied so we could use it).

Other. This hotel was outside of Naples, and outside the Pozzuoli town centre.  It was a nice walk into the train station (we got a great view of the harbour).  The huge downside was that the  Naples area had a garbage strike on at the time so there were huge piles of garbage EVERYWHERE (sometimes blocking the sidewalk).  Our hotel staff was nice, and we had a nice breakfast in the morning.  They were even able to sell us the Campania ArteCard.

The hotel also offered parking in a small garage across the road (somewhat tricky to get too), with a key that allowed us access at pretty much all times (the key had to be checked in and out of the front desk).

Kid Friendly Rating: I would give this hotel three stars (***) for kid friendliness.

Transportation

Driving.  We drove from our  home in Germany (via Pisa and Rome).  Gas is pretty pricey in Italy, but luckily with our DoD/Nato status, we were able to get discounted gas coupons for use all over Italy.  Driving in Italy is a NIGHTMARE.  I kid you not.  Especially in Naples.  Traffic lights, road markings, and general traffic rules are all very optional to the drivers in southern Italy, and are rarely observed.  People will stop where and when they like, pass you on all sides, and speed.  So be careful when driving. Parking is also difficult to find in Naples.

Public Transportation.  There is a decent enough train system in southern Italy which can take you to the major sites.  There are also buses available, but be sure you know the schedule, and be ready to wait (apparently bus drivers in Naples don't believe in being on time).

Walking. We were able to walk from our hotel to the local train station (a bit of a hike...about a mile), and walking around Naples itself and the local attractions was the best way to see them.  Be aware of drivers as they are not exactly cautious.

Parking. Parking is limited in this area, and is expensive.  Most parking areas are also controlled by "outside interests", which means that you may need to pay extra for protection.  Make sure to always take EVERYTHING out of your car.  Car related crime is apparently very common in this area.

Food

The hotel provided a nice continental style breakfast, which made our day easier to start!  Lunch and dinner were at local restaurants.

Fast Food. There were plenty of fast food places about (including a lot of familiar sights).  The take away pizza places were pretty common.

Sit Down.  There were quite a number of restaurants in the area, most of the Italian food variety, and ranging from casual sit down cafe to fancy uppercrust restaurant.  There was a nice little restaurant across the road from our hotel.

Attractions

If you are planning on seeing Pompeii and other of the local archeological sites, consider taking the Circumvesuviana, a train that takes you around to the sites.

Pompeii
Times: 
November - March, every day from 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last admission 3.30 p.m.)
April - October, every day from 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. (last admission 6 p.m.)

Costs:

Single ticket - valid for 1 day

Full price: € 11.00
Half price: € 5.50 (*)

access to 5 sites: Herculaneum, Pompeii, Oplontis, Stabiae, Boscoreale) - valid for 3 days
Full price: € 20.00
Half price : € 10.00 (*)

Free of charge: for EU citizens under 18 or over 65 years old.

(*) Reductions: for EU citizens aged 18-24 and EU permanent school teachers.
Reductions and free tickets can be issued only by showing a valid document (passport, identity card, driving license).

 

Comments: This was a great visit.  There is plenty to explore in this city.  You can see a variety of the death casts (plaster moulds of what was left of the people trapped), excavated buildings, and the surviving art.  This is not a stroller friendly place, so consider another type of baby carrier if you need one.  Touring the whole site takes a lot of walking so be prepared to make as many stops as your little ones need.  There is a cafe/viewing platform/restrooms in the center of the city.  There are also restrooms at the entrance.  Our big disappointment was that we ended up having to pay for our 5 year old, as we were not EU citizens.  There is a train station just outside of Pompeii's entrance, and plenty of vendors on the walk to get in.  

 
Herculaneum
Times: 
November - March, every day from 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last admission 3.30 p.m.)
April - October, every day from 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. (last admission 6 p.m.)

Costs: 

Single ticket - valid for 1 day
Full price: € 11.00
Half price: € 5.50 (*)

 

Access to 5 sites: (Herculaneum, Pompeii, Oplontis, Stabiae, Boscoreale) - valid for 3 days
Full price: € 20.00
Half price : € 10.00 (*)

 

Free of charge: for EU citizens under 18 or over 65 years old.

 

(*) Reductions: for EU citizens aged 18-24 and EU permanent school teachers.
Reductions and free tickets can be issued only by showing a valid document (passport, identity card, driving license).

  
Comments: Following along the same lines as Pompeii, you can see what is left of this harbour town (yep, it used to be right on the water line).  You can see how high the volocanic waste piled up, as there has been significant excavation. Marvel at the buildings and art that survived the centuries of burial.  Be careful with strollers in the winding and narrow streets.

Mount Vesuvius
This mountain has it's own national park.  The road up is very winding and narrow.  If you want to see the crater, you can get information for the Gran Cono from the national park service.

Times:
OPENING HOURS (Every day including Sundays and public holidays)

January-Febraury-November-December:	09:00 - 15:00
March-October:	09:00 - 16:00
April-May-June-September:	09:00 - 17:00
July-August:	09:00 - 18:00

Costs:
Since 13/01/2005, only tickets issued by the Vesuvius National Park Authority are valid for access to the path leading to the crater. These are only on sale at the ticket office in the large square at 1000m in Ercolano.

Free entry

• For accompanied children under 8;
• For pupils from primary schools in possession of a list of member schools;
• For guides, tutors, and primary and secondary school teachers;
• For members and staff of the Vesuvius National Park Authority and the State Forestry Department;
• For staff of the Vesuvius Observatory on official business.
• For those in possession of special written authorization from the Park Authority;
• For the staff of the armed and police forces on official business;
• For scholars and researchers from Universities and scientific, research or educational Institutes duly authorized by the legal representatives of the institutions and by the Park Authority;

Tickets from 4.50 euros

• Students and under-18;
• Organized groups (including independent ones) of at least 10 people, subject to completion of a request form at the ticket office;
• Groups organized by travel agencies, tour operators or organizations operating in the field of tourism in possession of official membership documentation;
• University students in possession of appropriate student ID cards;
• Secondary school students present on lists drawn up by member schools;

Tickets from 6.50 euros: all other visitors.

PARKING

Motor vehicles € 2.50

Caravans, campers and trailers € 5.00

(only permitted during visits to the crater and not for long stays or refuelling) 

Comments: Feel like hiking?  Take a chance to see the mountain that made Naples famous.  The hike is very steep, and strollers are not allowed.  Once you make it from the parking lot to the gift shop, you'll have to wait until a guide is ready to take you up to the crater.  Take the opportunity to see Naples, Pompeii, and the Med from above!  If the weather cooperates, you can even see the beginnings of a new cone in the still active volcano.  The guides will also tell you about the volcano and it's history.  You can even buy pieces of volcanic rock at the gift shop.  The walk up is very dusty and dirty, so be prepared with closed toed shoes, and some clean socks when you are done!  We used a baby backpack for our smallest child, and traded off carrying the other two for short distances up the trail (and down again).  We even had some of the other visitors help us with the kids.

Archeological Museum - Naples
Times:
9.00-20.00 (entrance until 19.00).
Closed: every Tuesday, 1st January, 1st May, 25th December (except when otherwise indicated).

Costs:
6.50 euro (full price);
3.25 euro (reduced, for citizens of the European Union between 18 and 25 and for teachers);
Free for citizens of the European Union under 18 and over 65.

Comments: Home to some of the treasures recovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum, it is a chance to explore the distant past of Italy.  If you didn't get enough visiting the sites, come and see some more magical pieces.  We didn't visit this particular place, as we preferred spending our time at the actual locales, and getting into downtown Naples was not a pleasant thought. 


Toilettes

When you travel with little ones, bathrooms are an important thing to be able to find. Europeans are generally not big on public restrooms.

Availability: Public restrooms can be found, but are scattered and not always easy to find. Your best bet is to make sure to make use of restrooms offered in the restaurants, museums, and other attractions that you visit. Most of the major attractions have restrooms.

Public/Private: Most available restrooms are actually going to be in some type of business, whether it is a restaurant or attraction.

Cost: Costs for restrooms can run from free to around 1 euro per person. Occassionally bathroom attendants will allow an adult to take a child into the restroom and only charge for one person (I did this with my kids, and even when I took both potty trained children, I usually only had to pay for me).

Nearby Amenities

Laundry: There were not any laundry facilities near the hotel, but there were a few in the town centre.  The hotels and tourist information sites should have information.

Groceries:  We found a nice little Coop store down the road from our hotel, which we used for milk (for our toddler), drinks, snacks, and treats.  We even picked up some stuff for a lunch on the go at Pompeii.  There were other smaller shops in the town, and Naples proper is home to a variety of shops and supermarkets.

Review

If you can get over the traffic, the garbage, and the culture shock, Naples can be a great place.  We had the distinct impression that what many people would consider the "mob" was in tight control of this area and some of the services.  Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius are worth the trip.

Trip Highlights

- Pompeii
- Mt. Vesuvius
- Herculaneum

Overall Rating

Considering the down sides, I'd give Naples 3 stars.